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Kittens have 26 temporary teeth that begin to erupt at about two to three weeks of age. They have 30 permanent teeth that emerge at about three to four months.

Studies show that 70 percent of cats show signs of gum disease by age three. Symptoms include yellow and brown build-up of tartar along the gumline, red inflamed gums and persistent bad breath.

Feline Odontoclastic Lesions (FORL), commonly called cervical line lesions, are the most common dental disease of domestic cats. The disease was virtually unrecognized until the mid-1970's. Recent studies show about 28 percent of domestic cats show at least one lesion. The lesions often begin below the gumline, so they can develop undetected. Often, the first sign to the pet owner is a severely inflamed gum around a tooth. Cat owners should seek veterinary care if their cat exhibits pain or inflammation around the gums.

1. My cat won't use the litter box because he/she is rebellious and wants to make me mad.
A. True
B. False

2. My cat scratches the furniture to:
A. Mark territory
B. All of these
C. Stretch muscles
D. Shed nail sheaths

3. What's the purpose in why my cat "kneads"?
A. A sign of being hungry
B. A sign of aggressiveness
C. A sign of affection
D. A sign of being unhappy

4. My cat leaves objects such as his/her toys in his/her food or water bowls just to drive me crazy.
A. True
B. False

5.Why does my cat suddenly bite me in an aggressive manner when I'm petting him/her?
A. My cat is mean
B. None of these
C. My cat doesn't like affection
D. My cat doesn't want to be petted anymore

6. My cat purrs only when he/she is happy and relaxed.
A. True
B. False

7. Is it normal for my cat to exhibit body movements during sleep?
A. Yes
B. No

8.Why does my cat insist on playing and ransacking the house after I have gone to bed?
A. My cat wants me to get up
B. My cat is a nocturnal creature
C. My cat likes to annoy me
D. None of these

9. Why does my cat scratch the floor around his/her food and water bowls after eating as if to cover it up?
A. To hide it
B. Doesn't like its location
C. It smells bad
D. None of these

10. Why does my indoor cat attack me or my other indoor cat(s) when he/she sees an unknown cat outdoors?
A. My cat is most likely showing he/she is in control
B. My cat is most likely showing displaced fear
C. My cat thinks of me or my other cat(s) as prey
D. My cat is most likely showing displaced aggression

Answers

1. B 2. B 3. C 4. B 5. D
6. B 7. A 8. B 9. A 10. D

One of the best ways to strengthen the bond between you and your cat is to play games together. When you play with your cat, you become the most interesting object in his or her life. Not only is playtime fun for your cat, it's also a great way to get your cat to exercise, both mentally and physically.

Following are six games you can play with your cat. Not every feline will want to play every game on this list, but certainly there are at least a few games here that you and your cat will enjoy. While most of them require objects you may have around the house, there are also a number of toys available that provide the same fun. The key is to actually play with your cat in order to create a fun and lasting relationship with your cat while also keeping them trim and healthy.

Paw Hockey - Play this game in a room with hardwood, tile, or linoleum floors that has at least 10 square feet of free floor space. Break off an eight-inch square of aluminum foil and scrunch it up into a hockey puck shape. (Please remember that foil balls should always be thrown away at the end of the game. They are fine for games, but are not safe for unsupervised play.) Show your cat the puck and then flick it with your fingers so that it goes skittering across the floor. Your cat will then chase after the puck, batting it with his paws and making it scoot from one end of the room to the other. If your cat starts to lose interest in the game, pick up the puck and give it another flick.

Staircase Dash - With your cat at the top of the stairs and you at the bottom, fling a ping pong ball to the top of the staircase, against the side wall, one or two steps in front of where your cat is sitting. The ball bounces down the stairs and your cat should race down the stairs chasing after it. When the ball reaches the bottom of the stairs, probably with your cat just a step behind, fling the ball back up to the top of the staircase. Keep tossing the ball up the steps until your cat gets tired.

Bathtub Scurry - Put a ping pong ball in a clean, dry bathtub. Remove the bottles of shampoo and bars of soap and plug the drain so the ping pong ball doesn't get lodged there. Put your cat in the bathtub, show him the ping pong ball, and bounce the ball off the side of the bathtub. As the ball bounces around, your cat should chase after it. If the ball starts to slow down, give it a good roll off the side to get it moving again and to keep up your cat's interest.

Chase the Thing on the String - Get an aluminum foil ball, hollow plastic Whiffle ball, or catnip mouse and tie it to a three-foot piece of twine or heavy string. Pull the string along the floor in front of you, over the cat furniture, or up and down your staircase and let your cat chase after the object. Be sure to allow your cat to capture the object every once in awhile so he/she can feel like a successful predator.

Shadows on the Wall - Turn off the lights in the evening and shine a flashlight on a nearby wall. Dangle bouncy cat toys or other small objects in the light and move them back and forth so their shadows race up and down the wall. Your cat should leap up at the wall trying to catch the elusive prey.

Cats can be very communicative. Unfortunately for us, they generally do not communicate verbally, and certainly not in a language that we understand! So when a cat stops using the litter box, that is his way of letting us know that something is wrong. In order to determine if it's a medical problem or psychological problem, there are a few things you need to know.

When your cat stops using the litter box, have your veterinarian examine your cat to rule out any medical problems such as a urinary tract problem. If you notice your cat straining to urinate or defecate, he or she should be taken to the veterinarian immediately, as it could indicate a serious health issue. Once your cat's health has been cleared, it's time to look to other causes of litter box avoidance.

It is important to make sure your cat's litter box is in a location that allows for some privacy. Cats, like dogs, use association as a way to dictate behavior. If your cat has a bad experience while using the litter box, it can lead to unwanted behavior and inappropriate eliminating. For example, if your cat has been frightened by the noise of a barking dog or a large household appliance while in the litter box, he may find other places that are quieter or more private to relieve himself. Trapping your cat in the litter box in order to administer medication could also result in the same unwanted behavior. To guard against this, try to find a relatively private location for your cat's litter box and allow your cat the same privacy you would like when using the bathroom.

Another reason for your cat avoiding the litter box may be the due to the number of cats in the household. Adult cats generally like to define their territory. Depending on the number of cats and the amount of space they have, territories can often overlap. This can cause territorial anxiety which may lead your cat to spray urine in order to mark his or her territory. Keep in mind, however, that the litter box can become part of a cat's territory, making it extremely important to have enough litter boxes for all the cats in the home. Cats in multiple cat households generally use more than one box, so having multiple boxes increases the likelihood that your cat is going to find a satisfactory one. A good general rule is to have one more litter box than the number of cats. For example, if you have three cats, you should have four litter boxes, if you have 5 cats, you should have six litter boxes, etc. If for space reasons you need to limit the number of boxes, have as many as you can and be sure to clean regularly, if not daily.

If you only have one cat and the litter box is in a quiet, private location, the solution could be as simple as changing the type of litter. Believe it or not, cats can be quite choosy about the litter they like. If you find a litter your kitty likes, DO NOT change it unless directed by your veterinarian for medical purposes. The litter box should be scooped daily and the entire box of litter should be changed once a week. When you change the litter, you should also wash the box with a mild soap and water and allow it to air dry. If a strong disinfectant like bleach is used, the lasting odor could deter your cat from using that box. If your cat is not using the litter box and the box has a cover, removing the cover can sometimes cure the problem. Many cats prefer the open air and find an enclosed box too confining, especially larger cats.

Hopefully these useful tips can help you find a solution to your cat's litter box avoidance problem. If you find that your cat is still not using the litter box after repeated attempts to resolve the problem, it might be reasonable to consult an animal behaviorist. Before doing this, however, it is best to contact your veterinarian for further assistance.

Ever wonder if Fido prefers a blue toy over a pink toy? Believe it or not, he doesn't. Man's best friend is colorblind, but fortunately, his survival does not depend upon the ability to see colors. His keen sense of smell compensates for his inability to see colors and enables him to differentiate between objects. Extensive scientific testing on dogs supports the conclusion that they live in a colorless world, though there is some evidence that they may be sensitive to blue and green light. The testing done has focused primarily on the dogs' responses to colors for food. The enlisted dogs were unable to tell the difference between the signal for food (one color) and that which was not for food (another color). The same tests were conducted on cats and, not surprisingly, our feline friends produced similar results.

Birds on the other hand have exceptional color vision, and it is widely believed that it may be better than our own. Up until the early 1970s, it was thought that birds had tri-chromatic (3 color) vision. After several studies, it has been accepted that the avian eye, not the human eye, is the quintessential color vision system.

Why is it that dogs and cats have such poor color vision and birds have such superior color vision, with humans (and monkeys!) somewhere in between? It has to do with the number of cones, or cells, that make up the retina of the eye. Dogs and cats only have two cones, leaving them with mostly monochromatic vision.

Birds, however, have four (or sometimes more) cones, allowing them to see not only more colors or hues, but more saturated color. We, as humans, fall into the middle with three cones, allowing us to see a variety of colors, but not quite as many as birds. So the next time you go shopping for a dog, cat or bird toy for your pet, remember that while Fido or Kitty may not have a preference, Polly may prefer something to match her feathers!

In general, cats live longer than dogs. The average life span of a housecat is about 12-15 years. Some cats are extremely healthy, living well into their 20s.

Cats grow old gracefully. As they grow older, they have a tendency to sleep more. An elderly cat generally spends most of his or her time sleeping on a couch, a comfortable chair, or on a blanket close to a heat source.

Older cats are less active and less playful than kittens and young cats. They are also more irritable. As cats get older, their organs function less efficiently. Degeneration of the kidneys, thyroid glands, pancreas and adrenal glands occurs, resulting in kidney failure, hyperthyroidism and diabetes. Their senses (sight, smell, and hearing) have a tendency to deteriorate as well.

Older cats need help with grooming. As cats get older, they groom themselves less, as well as less effectively. Long-haired cats are particularly bothered by coat problems. Their coats are often matted, causing severe skin irritations. If an elderly cat is unable to keep up with his or her grooming, human intervention may be necessary. Long-haired cats and short-haired cats that do not groom themselves effectively should be brushed or combed twice a week.

Constipation is a common problem of older cats. It is often the result of a decrease in gastrointestinal tract motility. Hairballs can also cause constipation and very often they lead to intestinal impaction. Surgery is occasionally necessary in order to remove obstructive hairballs. Since hairballs are not easily regurgitated, preventative medication such as laxatives should be administered once a week. The use of a laxative is recommended for the prevention of intestinal obstruction, however if the laxative is given too frequently, it can interfere with intestinal absorption of vitamins and minerals.

The skin and nails of an older cat should be checked regularly. The skin should be checked for lumps and bumps. If lumps are found, the cat should be examined by a veterinarian. Nails should be checked and trimmed on a weekly basis. Untrimmed nails have a tendency to curl around, causing self-inflicted injury.

Many elderly cats are prone to dental tartar build-up. Tartar causes bad breath and can lead to dental problems — gum disease and tooth loss. Cats may tolerate a bit of home dentistry like brushing; however, they must be taken to a veterinary hospital for treatment. Treatment generally consists of cleaning and polishing the teeth.

Kidney failure is a very common disease of older cats. This occurs when 70 percent of the kidney's functions are lost. Early symptoms of kidney failure include weight loss, increased thirst, increased urination (frequency and amount), decreased appetite, and occasional vomiting. Symptoms of kidney failure result from the buildup of toxins in the body, which are normally removed by healthy kidneys.

Specially formulated foods are available for cats that are diagnosed with kidney failure. These foods may be purchased through your veterinarian.

Cancer, usually resulting from feline leukemia virus infection, is commonly diagnosed in elderly cats. The virus is transmitted from an infected cat to a healthy cat through intimate "nose-to-nose" contact with infected saliva. There are no specific symptoms for feline leukemia virus infection; however, tumors of the lymph nodes, kidneys and intestines are quite common. Other symptoms include weight loss, anemia (decrease in red blood cells), poor appetite, vomiting and diarrhea.

Hyperthyroidism is a very common endocrine problem in older cats. Hyperthyroidism is due to an overproduction of thyroid hormone by the thyroid glands (two glands, one gland on each side of the throat). Symptoms associated with hyperthyroidism include drastic weight loss, hyperactivity, and increased appetite. This disease can be treated medically, surgically, or with radiation therapy.

Heart problems are often diagnosed in elderly cats. The most common heart disease is cardiomyopathy. Cardiomyopathy is a primary heart disease, though it can develop secondary to kidney disease and hyperthyroidism.

Diabetes mellitus is a disease that commonly affects older animals. Symptoms of diabetes include increased thirst and increased urination. Animals with diabetes mellitus often have ravenous appetites. Insulin is usually necessary for controlling diabetes mellitus in older cats.

Older cats do not appreciate change. They feel comfortable with the status quo. Environmental changes are not well tolerated. If a vacation or a trip is planned, have someone come to your home to feed your cat. An elderly cat does not do well in a kennel situation.

Since older cats spend most of the day resting, the location of their bed is important. This area should be draft-free, warm, and not damp.

Elderly cats loose some of their ability to digest specific foods. The ability to digest and assimilate fat declines with age. Olfactory (smell) and gustatory (taste) senses are diminished. Food may need to be warmed (not hot) in order to entice an older cat to eat. It is not recommended to give food directly from the refrigerator.

Fresh clean water should be available at all times. The water bowl should be checked and filled at least once a day.

Routine veterinary check-ups, along with blood and urine tests, are important for detecting medical problems before they become emergency situations. Discuss an examination schedule specific to your cat with your veterinarian.